By Sam Smith (University of Vermont)
Written April 22, 2013
Although ferrying across the border to see the majestic Victoria Falls was an incomparable adventure, this past week was exciting in it of its own: it marked the beginning of Round River’s work here in the third and last concession, NG 18/19.
Trekking south from Kasane back to Mababe was long and hot, but thanks to Phoebe’s insistence, we took a short side trip at the stone sign along the Savuti road labeled, “Rock Paintings.” To be honest, I wasn’t enamored with the idea of looking at crude depictions of elephants on rocks, that is until our walk to look for the paintings turned into a hike up one of the Savuti Hills! More strenuous than it normally would have been after having just been sitting for six hours, we clamored up boulder after boulder (leaving Sixteen huffing about how awful hiking is) until we reached the top. And wow, what a VIEW! We could see the see the river snaking below through the dry bush, the swath of Fever Berry trees lining its banks, and the other nearby “hills” several kilometers away. The fact that we were experiencing any measure of elevation in Botswana, as well as an opportunity for us Vermont students to climb a few rocks, revived our spirits and was the perfect ending to a relaxing trip.
Sam and Susanna take in the view from the top of the rocky hill in Chobe National Park, where we saw ancient rock paintings.
Due to scheduling with guides from both Mababe and Khwai, we decided to stay in Mababe for another couple of days. One afternoon, we went into the village to finish our goodbyes with a little cultural activity: a traditional San game called Stick. This being Africa, we did not in fact play the game then because we first had to drive back out into the bush with several guides and the chairman of Mababe trust to collect the perfect sticks- the supple but sturdy branches of the Brandy bush. We also paid a solemn visit to the elephant graveyard of NG 41, where the remains of commercially elephant hunted are placed. Three elephant had been killed while we were in Kasane, by trophy hunters. Otherwise, instead of playing Stick, the guides joined us for a goodbye dinner that we all helped cook: butternut squash soup and Susie’s delicious garlic naan. Somehow everyone enjoyed the foreign fare!
The next afternoon, we were entertained watching several of the guides demonstrate playing Stick. Each participant has a running start, throws the stick flat on the ground so that it bounces off and propels itself forward. The object of the game is to have your stick fly the furthest distance. After watching for a bit, we all returned to camp and listened to the chairman tell a traditional story around the fire.
Chairperson Ketalpilwe getting ready to throw his stick during the game, played in an open shrubby area near our camp.
Packing up efficiently, we set off for Khwai the next morning. After driving 40 km northwest, we arrived at a beautiful site for our last bush camp- on a peninsula surrounded by a channel of the Khwai River, among towering Leadwood trees and all the ants in Botswana.
Our camp in Khwai (NG19)
The guides arrived in shifts over the next two days and seemed eager to try out our method of monitoring wildlife. We began point counts that evening, and transects the following morning. Fortunately, the sun is rising later so we’re able to sleep in another fifteen minutes, although the chilly air is making it difficult to leave the warmth of our sleeping bags. Guides and students alike are settling in quickly, playing soccer, fishing, drinking Cokes and Iron Brews, and attempting to take more than two shaky steps on the slackline. It’s hard to imagine being anywhere else in the world except right here.
(Photos by Susie Dain-Owens)