By Brynn Pedrick (University of New Hampshire)
We began our fourth day in the fjords at the base of our first pass of the trip. The Southeast corner of Estero Landgre had seemed so far away from our starting point just a few days before, and today we would hike to the pass and see what landscapes lay beyond. The sun that had greeted us when we first arrived to this jungle amidst the fjords has bid us farewell, and our days are now spent hiking in a continuous state of dampness.
Ellie had it right when she shared a quote with us from a 1904 explorer: “the general wetness of these half-submerged islands quite surpasses all ordinary experience”. This climate’s continuous rain is not the only source of the moisture that inevitably finds its way into our layers. Every day in the fjords is a mix of sphagnum bogs, rivers, swamps (of mud thigh-deep), and dense jungles; it’s impressive if we end the day with our waists dry. There is no question of if your socks will be dry in the morning because it goes without saying that they won’t be. And yet, there is never hesitation that the adventure is worth this wetness. No matter the level of bushwhacking or swamp trekking, the beauty of this wild place surpasses the struggle.
Hiking into the rain. Photo by Susie Dain-Owens.
The anticipation of seeing what lay beyond the pass, and what landscapes we would encounter next, drove us up and over the pass by midday. Our trail of 17 people was led by gauchos Felidor and Orlando, who we’d grown close to over the time we’d spent with them. We were always invited to join their matѐ ritual and their company was that of sincere hospitality and kindness, never without laughter. They too were eager to see what lay beyond the pass, as no one had yet to set foot on the stretch of land between Estero Landgre and Valle Ventisqueros, including members of CONAF.
To experience something for the first time is unique, such as the first time in a foreign country or city, but to be the first group to experience the land beyond that pass is indescribable. Until now that land had been untouched by human hand, foot, and soul. We were there as none other had been before, and with that came a feeling of responsibility to understand and preserve that land, and our research projects were helping to accomplish that. Each of us were participating in the survey of plants, birds, or huemul deer as we made our way through the fjords. As a member of the team working on the huemul research project I was eager to see one in this environment. I had yet to observe a huemul in the fjords, however by collecting data on the location and abundance of its scat I felt that I was learning more about its behavior and land preferences.
Hiking under the (rare) sun. Photo by Susie Dain-Owens.
Because the valley had not been traveled until now, it existed without a name. The gauchos Felidor and Orlando happily encouraged us to be a part of the naming process and we each had our own ideas about the best way to put this valley on the map. We all brainstormed and shot ideas around a matѐ break (matѐ was often cause for a break in the day) as we sat on the soggy valley floor. In the end, the valley was more so named after us than by us: it was named Valle de las Chúcaras. Regardless of several online searches we are still unsure of the most accurate translation of chúcara, however we have been told that it loosely translates to a feisty, as in an unbroken horse. Throughout the trip we were often jokingly referred to by the gauchos as chúcaras, which was fitting of our group, and it seemed to suit the valley well.
Our following days through Bernard O’Higgins National Park continued to bring adventure, rain, and stunning views. Every turn or pass traveled was a new sight to take your breath away. It is completely humbling to hear the thunderous sound of a glacier calving, and to shift your gaze and see the mass of snow cascading down the glacier’s surface. I am so grateful to be here where we are learning by trekking up mountains, and not walking through campus or sitting in a lecture hall. The semester’s only just begun and it’s been an experience unlike any other. I can’t wait for the adventures to come.
(top photo by Devan Pensinger)