By James Maloney (Westminster College)
Written April 14, 2016.
Fall is here in Patagonia! And with the changing leaves comes the end of our semester here in Southern Chile. We’ve spent the last five days in the Aviles Valley; exploring the Eastern limits of Patagonia National Park and reflecting upon the lessons we’ve learned in the last three months. From plant nomenclature to community based conservation and ecophilathropy, our presumptions have been uprooted and replaced with a more nuanced understanding of wild places and humanity’s role within them. Today, we’re back in Coyhaique where our adventure began three months ago. Tomorrow, we’ll part ways; Some will go North and others farther South, but we’ll each carry this experience, the land and people, that have made this place special.
Westminster College student James Maloney hikes the Ruta Patrimonial de los Glaciares near Glaciar O’Higgins. Photo by Adam Spencer.
Academics
Like a traditional semester at college, much of our learning came from various readings and case studies; however with one important distinction, we were living in the places we were studying. Future Patagonia National Park provides one such example. Before beginning our guanaco and ñandu studies within the Chacabuco Valley, we read about the Tompkins legacy and how it fits into the larger idea of ecophilanthropy, the philosophy and practice of wealthy individuals using their fortunes to create protected areas and promote conservation efforts. So, as we drove through the park’s grassy steppe and watched wildlife move freely throughout the land, we were able to witness how big ideas had an even bigger effect on the landscape. In both formal and informal discussions, we were able examine and expand upon these ideas.
University of Vermont student Sadey Mirabile looks over Lago Chico while hiking the Ruta Patrimonial Los Glaciares. Photo by Shalynn Pack.
“My favorite class was our discussion about Conservacion Patagonica and the use of ecophilanthropy and capitalism to fund conservation campaigns. It was a unique opportunity have those discussion while in Parque Patagonia and to create my own opinion on park services and the role of public and private parks.” – Grace Fowler, Colby College
Community-based-Conservation
But one can only learn so much from readings—some of our most important experiences came from the people working in and around the [future Patagonia National] Park. Community-based conservation (CBC) places the community living within and nearby protected areas at the center of conservation goals. More importantly, it allows communities to make informed decisions about natural resource management with up-to-date scientific information. From Christian Suacedo, the Parque Nacional Patagonia’s head biologist, to Andrés Bozzolo, a guide at Patagonia Huts seeking a license within the park, we were able to get to know key figures within the community and see firsthand how even a small groups can have a lasting impact on the landscape
“Learning from the community, on issues like hydrodams and reserves/parks in the region gave me a new appreciation for community based conservation. CBC in many cases is the best chance that we have at successful conservation efforts, and being immersed in these issues gave me a better understanding for the keys to conservation success.” – Adeline Clayton, University of Vermont
“Some of my best learning experiences came at unexpected moments, like running into a gaucho on horseback along the Argentine border and talking about the future Patagonia National Park and problematic predators, or going on a run to Tamango and talking to a park guard for nearly two hours about conservation, Cochrane, and my future.” – Grace Fowler, Colby College
Colby College student Grace Fowler rides the CONAF boat Aguilaf past the icebergs of Glaciar Bernardo. Photo by Adam Spencer.
“This program changed my view on conservation and wilderness: No more fortress conservation. Cultural diversity parallels biodiversity; we need to protect nature to benefit communities. Conservationists need to work with local communities and make the protection of wilderness an inclusive endeavor.” – Olivia Andreozzi, University of Vermont
Activism
One of the more impactful experiences was meeting with members of Patagonia Sin Represas, an activist group and movement that united to prevent the construction of hydroelectric dams in the area. Mattias and Karla Rojas, who are originally from Iquique, a northern Chilean province which experienced the brunt of mining exploitation and its effects on communities there, articulated to us how they were drawn to Southern Patagonia in an effort to prevent what had happened in Northern Chile from happening again here.
“After watching Damnation and talking to activists with Patagonia Sin Represas I got to see firsthand where the proposed dam would be placed in the Baker River (the most beautiful, clearest river I know) in my favorite part of the Baker where it runs into the Chacabuco River and carries its meandering form through canyons and valleys. I saw the passion through Matteas and Carly speaking of the lack of Chilean rights to freshwater and how people affected by the dam downstream would not reap the economic benefits. A quotation resonated with me here – ‘Conservationists have to win every fight, while developers only need to win one.’ Coming from this experience, I’m more weary about hydropower as a reusable energy source (seems to do more harm than good) that is, the natural benefits from a river are more important in my eyes than cheaper electricity.” – Sadey Mirabile, University of Vermont
Some Favorite Memories
Some of our favorite experiences were simple, yet profound. For example, living in a tent for three months has made us all more appreciative of a warm bed. Then there was hiking in Villa O’Higgins; as we hiked up steep Valley walls our instructors warned of us the “Wild Patagonia,” that awaited us on the other side of the pass, where we met the strongest winds that most of us had ever experienced. Finally, a discussion of favorite moments would be lacking if we did not mention becoming accustomed to seeing huemul deer most mornings at Refugio Bernardo. Their elegance in the morning light was a sight we already miss.
Colby College student Nathaniel Rees leans into the furious winds coming off Glacier O’Higgins. Photo by Adam Spencer.
“This experience taught me so much about myself, my strengths, and what I am capable of. Most importantly it gave me even more of a passion to do conservation work and protect the wild places like this.” – Adeline Clayton, University of Vermont
University of Vermont student Adeline Clayton looks over the Tranquilo River. Photo by Adam Spencer.
“My favorite experience was hiking the Ruta Patrimonial and staying with Señor Misael. Some of my favorite wildlife experiences were with the chucaos in the Fjords, who foraged at our feet. Beyond the wildlife, I enjoyed speaking Spanish with the guardaparques who told us stories of the Pinochet era and perspectives of U.S. politics. Overall, Round River was an incredible experience which allowed me to gain key backpacking experience, which I’ll no doubt use in future field jobs.” – Spencer Crawford, University of Vermont
University of Vermont student Spencer Crawford climbs in the alpine rock-scape near Glacier Chico. Photo by Adam Spencer.
“Waking up for beautiful sunrises over jagged peaks and sleeping under the stars. Watching endangered huemul deer play on the beach by Refugio Bernardo. Climbing up steep passes and bushwhacking through the densest forest I’ve ever seen, and only moving two miles a day.” – Grace Fowler, Colby College
“This semester has been without a doubt such a unique experience, ups and downs included. The times where I became most confident in myself were the times when I was completely thrown out of my comfort zone. I believe that learning by first hand experience is the only way to live to the fullest, to be present for every moment and learn the most, which this semester has facilitated. This semester has also allowed me to reflect on my own role in conservation and how truly important it is to keep Patagonia a wild, beautiful place.” – Olivia Andreozzi, University of Vermont
University of Vermont student Olivia Andreozzi crosses a stream near Cerro Cochrane Norte and the Calluqueo Glacier. Photo by Adam Spencer.
To Future Adventures
UVM student Sadey Mirabile is headed back home in New York and will work for the UVM Outing Club starting this fall semester.
UVM students Addeline Clayton and Olivia Andreozzi are off to Torres del Paine National Park, where they’ll be exploring one of Chile’s most beautiful and popular parks. As they hike around the granite mastiff, they’ll no doubt be considering how unplanned tourism has affected the landscape. For example, fires started by cigarette ash burned countless acres in the park just last year.
UVM student Spencer Crawford heads back to Pirque to spend time with his grandmother and cousins before returning to Vermont to assist on a grassland bird research project.
Colby College students Nathaniel Rees and Grace Fowler are going to travel with me! We’re planning our next adventure from Spencer’s grandmothers home in Pirque, which is just South of Santiago. Between documentaries detailing the Pinochet area and a trip to the local vineyard—the largest in the world—we’re preparing for our trip north to the Atacama and Bolivia. There, we’ll explore Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest salt flat, and world-renowned stargazing. As we travel through Bolivia, we’ll consider how tourism has affected the landscape and how better to implement sustainable management plans in the future—something we’ve all become keenly aware during our time with Round River. So, as our journeys continue North and South, we go with a conservation ethic which guides each experience in Chile and beyond.
RRCS Patagonia S16 hikes alongside the massive face of Glacier Piramide. Photo by Adam Spencer.
Top photo: RRCS Patagonia group above the Chacabuco Valley, during the Natural History Final Exam. Photo by Adam Spencer.