by Johanna Griggs, of University of British Columbia
Botswana Study Abroad – Fall Semester 2019 – Week 4
Our group is almost 4 weeks into our semester! Being forever covered in dirt feels normal, scaring monkeys away from our food tent as we sit having class is part of the daily schedule, and we sleep easy with hyenas whoop-ing and hippos grumbling outside our tents. Everyone is beginning to feel more comfortable in the bush and checking for ‘eye-shine’ when you go to the washroom at night has become second nature. On top of all that, our group gets to know one another better with every evening around the fire and every transect driven, and general silliness has reached a new high.
Re bonye mathalerwa! – We saw wild dogs!
We finished at Tao Camp in NG18 (referring to concession 18 in the Ngamiland district) on October 6th after our first 12 days in the bush. It was sad to leave a place where we had become so comfortable, but our time there finished with a high point. On our final evening, everyone was getting ready for dinner and rinsing off after some frisbee-throwing when one of our instructors informed us he had seen a pack of wild dogs near camp.
This species is critically endangered in Botswana and it is rare to get the chance to see them (so imagine our excitement!). They live throughout the Okavango Delta in a variety of habitat where both water and cover is accessible. Within each pack, which can range from about 5-30 individuals, there is an alpha male and female. While subordinate females may breed, the alpha male and female tend to be the main reproductive couple. This species are extremely effective hunters and are often perceived negatively because of their ‘vicious’ hunting style. Wild dogs will hunt prey in a pack by wearing them down to the point of exhaustion, and then dragging it down by their hindquarters or snout, after which they disembowel and dismember the prey.
Under the setting sun, the 13 of us piled into 2 vehicles and headed out in search of some wild dogs. After driving through the open grassland for a while, we were about to call it quits when one student spotted a lone wild dog by a distant tree. However, as we approached the individual, more and more wild dogs emerged from the grasslands until we were surrounded by a pack of 29 dogs. It was a magical moment and remains the highlight of the semester so far.
Nkwe le matshwane – A leopard and a honey badger
After leaving Tao Camp, we had a few days in Maun to pick up groceries, run errands, and celebrate a very important birthday (happy 21st, Fiona!) before we headed off to our next destination, Magotlha Camp near Khwai in NG19.
Having now done our first couple of transects, we are getting comfortable here at our new campsite. The only challenge of our ‘new home’ are the neighbours: vervet monkeys and some very stubborn honey badgers. During the day, monkeys will grab any food that isn’t packed away and each night honey badgers chew through our food tent and eat about everything they possibly can. Despite our self-constructed barricades, the honey badgers refused to give up and we lost most of our food within a couple of nights. But if you’re gonna lose all your food, it may as well be to some hungry honey badgers in the African bush.
In addition to these tense inter-specific moments, our time here is filled with incredible moments. Just this evening, our class was cut short when we heard there were leopards nearby. Once again, we quickly all piled into our two vehicles and drove a short distance where we then sat for a half hour watching a leopard snoozing at the foot of a termite mound. These moments are where each of us pinch ourselves, and then break into wide smiles and nervous laughs as we realize that this is real and we actually get to study here for the next 8 weeks. And during our remaining time here, I’m sure, there are many more unforgettable moments on the way.